A WALK THROUGH OCCITANIA 2022

France is a haven for hikers.

For centuries France has provided the pilgrims of Europe with a host of well-marked trails through which they could make their pilgrimage over the Pyrenees in the footseps of Saint James - Saint-Jacques de Compostelle.  These trails may begin as far afield as Scotland, Belgium and Germany. Some trails across France link the pilgrims of Spain with the Vatican City in Rome. 325,000 people of all ages and faiths walk 'The Camino' each year with the unifying goal of spiritual growth. I count many of my friends among them. I deeply respect their faith and I admire their pilgrimage, but I do not share such faith and, personally, I would feel both hypocritical and disrespectful if I were to follow that trail under false pretences. It is for that reason that I chose a different path for my long walk of 2022.

From a purely secular perspective, France is also one of the most advanced nations in terms of hiking for the sheer pleasure of it. 3,500 clubs and associations across 115 regions within France and its territories administer the French Hiking Federation [FFR], which has just under a quarter of a million members. 215,000 kilometres of trails have been marked and mapped. The collaboration between the FFR and the French government's national geographic institute [ING] has resulted in a series of very detailed maps, equivalent and sometimes superior to the the Ordnance Survey maps with which my British and Australian friends would be familiar. The high resolution digital maps of the ING are the best I have ever seen, and are capable of discriminating between a six inch wide ancient tow path and a one metre wide bridle path when they are situated side by side. 

In hindsight, I should have done much deeper research into the resources of the FRR, as they cater for a wide variety of pedestrian activity. Instead I elected to devise my own path, as I felt that my goals would compromise the integrity of those hikers whose aims were to commune closely with nature and eschew more populated areas. I was wrong in that opinion, as there is an entire section of the FFR dedicated to hiking in towns and cities. Through reflection along the trail, I see now that I was also afraid. I am 69 years old, I had not walked in decades, my feet are arthritic, I lacked confidence in my own ability to complete a hike such as others do and I was concerned that I might slow down a team I might walk with as well as embarrass myself. Instead, I chose to follow canal paths as they offer less challenging terrain, and to walk alone. My stamina and hiking ability strengthened steadily along the route, and my self-confidence grew with it. Walking alone is a profoundly introspective experience. There is an element of inescapable loneliness, but also a sense of freedom; the selfishness of one who does not have to compromise his preferences to align with others. It is a mixed blessing.

My 'randonnée' was not only about walking - although it was extensively so. It was just as much about an immersion in French language, culture, cuisine and life. For this reason, small changes to my itinerary, rather than detracting from my experience, tangibly added to it. The unexpected closure of walking trails due to construction works, the flooding of a trail during a thunderstorm, the striking of French railway workers - these are all parts of life that allowed me the opportunity to test my flexibility, to challenge my stamina, to push my French language skills a little further. The opportunity to chat with a bus driver, to share a meal with a French family in a bistro, to chat with a young family over an aperitif, all of this was an unexpected seasoning of my adventure. There were no disappointments, only experiences and I thoroughly enjoyed my trek in its entirety.

My trek across the Occitanie region of Southern France took place between 12th September and 6th October 2022. The journey was made extensively on foot, but several small sections were taken by boat, train, bus and car. Sometimes this was simply to avoid bad weather; at other times it was to cut out sections of walking through suburbs to restart the walk in a rural setting. Occasionally, it was simply for the sheer pleasure of the ride.

Knowing this was my intention beforehand allowed me to make preparations that other walkers (pilgrims and committed hikers) might not have made. I plotted my trails in intense detail using the Gaia GPS mapping tools - right down to choosing which side of a canal I would walk on, where I would change sides and which streets I would use when entering towns. I then pre-booked accommodation at chambre d'hôtes, small hotels and a couple of AirBnB apartments along the way.  This allowed me to remove my tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, cooking and eating equipment from my pack. I chose a time of year that was after the main heat of summer was over and before the colder winter weather set in, meaning I could also remove heavy winter clothing layers from my pack. Together this made for a much lighter pack and a much easier walking experience.